FAQ

How do I handle my crested gecko?

Crested geckos are generally tolerant of handling, but it’s important to approach this activity with care. To build trust and reduce stress, you should handle your crested gecko for short periods initially, gradually increasing the duration as it becomes more accustomed to being held. Aim to handle your gecko for about 5 to 10 minutes, a few times a week. Be gentle and avoid sudden movements to prevent startling your pet.
Handling your gecko too frequently or roughly can cause stress, which can lead to health issues and impact its behaviour negatively. Always monitor your gecko’s response to handling and adjust accordingly, ensuring its well-being is prioritized.

 

How does shedding work?

Crested geckos typically shed their skin every 4 to 6 weeks. Younger geckos may shed more frequently, often every 2 to 4 weeks, as they are growing rapidly. Adult geckos tend to have a longer interval between sheds.
Eating shed skin is a natural behaviour. This behaviour serves several purposes. Firstly, it allows the gecko to reclaim valuable nutrients and proteins contained in the shed skin, contributing to its overall health and reducing the need for additional food resources. Secondly, consuming the shed skin helps to eliminate any trace of their presence, which could otherwise attract predators. Lastly, it keeps their environment clean, preventing the build-up of old, decayed skin which can harbour bacteria and fungi.

 

Why It Is Not a Good Idea to Co-Habit?

Crested geckos are naturally solitary animals and can become territorial when housed together. In the wild, they occupy their own spaces and avoid close contact with others. 
-    The presence of another gecko can create a constant state of anxiety, disrupting their eating and sleeping patterns. This weakens their immune system, making them more susceptible to illnesses and reducing their overall quality of life.
-    Aggressive encounters between co-habiting geckos often result in physical injuries. These can range from minor bites and scratches to serious wounds. 
-    When housed together, crested geckos may compete for food, leading to unequal access to nutrition. Dominant geckos may eat more, leaving submissive ones malnourished. 
-    If male and female crested geckos are housed together, there is a high likelihood of breeding. This can lead to over breeding  or breeding to soon can exhaust the female, compromising her health and well-being.
-    Each crested gecko has unique care requirements based on its age, health, and temperament. When housed together, it becomes difficult to monitor and cater to each individual's specific needs. This can lead to neglect of particular geckos, especially those that are less dominant or more reclusive.

 

What are the benefits of Feeding Insects to Crested Geckos?

Insects are an excellent source of protein, which is essential for the growth, repair, and maintenance of a crested gecko's muscles and tissues. Protein is particularly crucial for juvenile geckos as they undergo rapid growth. 
-    Feeding insects, especially when gut-loaded with nutrient-rich foods, provides crested geckos with essential minerals such as calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus. Calcium is vital for bone health and preventing metabolic bone disease, a common ailment in reptiles. Dusting insects with calcium powder further enhances their nutritional value.
-    Insects also contain a variety of vitamins that are beneficial to crested geckos. For instance, vitamin A found in insects supports eye health and skin integrity, while vitamin D3 helps in the absorption of calcium. Ensuring a diversified insect diet can help meet the vitamin requirements of crested geckos.
-    Insects have a high moisture content, which can contribute to the overall hydration of crested geckos. Proper hydration is crucial for maintaining kidney function, skin health, and overall well-being.
-    Feeding live insects to crested geckos allows them to engage in their natural hunting behavior. This can be mentally stimulating and enriching, providing them with a sense of purpose and excitement. Hunting and capturing live prey can also help crested geckos maintain their agility and reflexes.
-    Crickets are one of the most common insects fed to crested geckos. They are readily available, easy to gut-load, and provide a good balance of protein and other nutrients.

-    While Pangea or other powder gecko food can provide essential nutrients, relying solely on these products can result in nutritional deficits and lack of physical stimulation for crested geckos. Powder diets may not fully replicate the diverse nutritional profile found in natural prey such as live insects. 

-    Geckos , especially the babies or young ones, if fed only powdered food will grow a lot slower and won’t thrive. There have been plenty of cases, where 1 year old crested geckos were compared, with only powdered food they were a third of the weight of geckos that was fed insects.

When are they breeding ready?

Crested geckos are typically ready for breeding when they reach about 124 months of age and weigh at least 40 grams for males and 45 - 50g for females. It is essential to ensure that both the male and female geckos are healthy and have received proper nutrition before attempting to breed them. The female, in particular, requires extra calcium to support egg production and prevent metabolic bone disease.
Once you have confirmed their readiness, introduce the male to the female. Monitor their interactions closely, as initial introductions can sometimes lead to aggressive behavior. If the geckos show signs of stress or aggression, separate them and try reintroducing them later.
Depending on the behaviour of both, you could keep the male with her until she lays eggs or only let them breed and separate them afterwards. Some males are very aggressive or persistent and will keep on bothering the female while others are more chilled. 
During the breeding process, the male will typically show interest by bobbing his head and twitching his tail. If the female is receptive, she will allow the male to approach and mate. Mating can take several minutes, and it is normal for the male to bite the female's neck to hold her in place.

After successful mating, the female will lay eggs within 30 to 40 days. Ensure she has an appropriate laying box filled with moist substrate where she can dig and deposit her eggs. 
Once the eggs are laid, It typically takes 60-120 days for the eggs to hatch, depending on the incubation temperature.
Throughout the incubation period, avoid disturbing the eggs and only handle them when necessary. Once the eggs hatch, the baby geckos should be placed in a separate enclosure with appropriate humidity, temperature, and access to small, gut-loaded insects for their initial nutrition.

 

What are the proper enclosure sizes?

( what I use and found to work very well. I have all these tubs and enclosures available )
For hatchlings, a smaller enclosure is ideal to help them feel secure and to make it easier for them to find food. 
As the geckos grow and become more active, their enclosure should be upgraded to provide more space.  Only upgrade if your gecko is consistently eating good.

Hatchlings
13 x 17 x 30
Juvies ( from 6g )
18 x 20 x 33 
Big juvies / sub adult  ( from 10g )
30 x 30 x 45
Adults ( from 30g )
40 x 40 x 60

When setting up an enclosure, it is essential to include:
-    Vertical space: Crested geckos are arboreal and enjoy climbing, so provide branches, vines, and plants.
-    Hideouts: Provide multiple hiding spots at different levels to make the geckos feel secure.
-    Humidity and Temperature: Maintain appropriate humidity levels (60-80%) and a temperature gradient of 22-26°C.
-    Substrate: Use a substrate that retains moisture, such as terrarium soil, to help maintain humidity.
-    Cork bark is recommended, as it doesn’t rot or mold.
-    Real live plants are only for experienced keepers.

 

Heat lamp vs heat mat?

Heat lamps carry certain risks . The primary concern is that heat lamps can create excessively high temperatures, which can lead to overheating and dehydration in crested geckos. Also burns and injuries are very likely when the lamp is not set up correctly
Heat mats provide a safer and more controlled heating option. Placed under one side of the enclosure, heat mats offer a gentle and consistent source of warmth. This method allows crested geckos to move between warmer and cooler areas as they need, mimicking their natural environment. Additionally, heat mats help to avoid the risk of burns or overheating associated with heat lamps, ensuring a stable and secure habitat for the geckos.

 

UVB?

Crested geckos do not require UVB lighting, as they are nocturnal and naturally receive minimal exposure to sunlight in the wild. However, providing a low-level UVB light (2-5%) can be beneficial for their overall health, aiding in the synthesis of vitamin D3 and calcium absorption. If you choose to use UVB lighting, ensure it is set up properly and monitored to prevent excessive exposure.

 

How to mist?

It is recommended to mist the enclosure once a day on hot days and every second day in winter to maintain appropriate humidity levels. Regular misting ensures that the humidity remains within the 60% range, which is essential for the geckos' health and well-being. Rather mist to little than too much. Over misting can cause serious problems. Excessive humidity can create a breeding ground for mold, bacteria, and fungal growth, which can pose health risks to the geckos. Overly humid conditions can also lead to respiratory infections, skin problems, and an increased risk of parasitic infestations.

 

Why Isn’t My Crested Gecko Eating?

Stress
•    New environment (recently moved, shipped, or rehomed)
•    Too much handling too soon
•    Loud noises, frequent cage disruption
•    Cohabitation issues (dominance, bullying—especially if housed with another)
 What to do:
•    Let them settle in quietly for at least a week
•    Minimize handling
•    House solo

Improper Temperature or Humidity
•    Temps too cold, slow digestion
•    Temps too hot , cause stress
•    Low humidity = dehydration = appetite loss
 What to do:
•    Keep temps 20-25
•    Humidity should be about 60%

 Diet Preferences
•    Some geckos are picky about powdered diets
•    Formula changes can also throw them off
 What to do:
•    Try different brands/flavours 

  Lack of Insect Variety
•    Some geckos prefer insects over powders
•    Not offering insects can reduce interest in food
What to do:
•    Offer live, gut-loaded insects
•    Dust with calcium

  Health Problems
•    Parasites, impaction, shedding issues
•    Mouth rot, injuries, or internal illness
 What to do:
•    Check for lethargy, weight loss, stuck shed
•    Inspect poop (or lack of it)
•    If it’s been more than 2 weeks without food, or there’s rapid weight loss, consult a reptile vet

6. Seasonal Slowdowns
•    Some geckos naturally slow down in winter
•    Cooler room temps = lower activity and appetite
 What to do:
•    Ensure heating and lighting are consistent
•    Monitor weight, not just food intake